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	<title>Brake Problems and Troubleshooting</title>
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		<title>Brake Problems and Troubleshooting</title>
		<link>http://brakeproblemsandtroubleshooting.wordpress.com/2009/07/22/hello-world/</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:55:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>scottstephens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[auto repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[brake problems]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[brake troubleshooting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[car repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to fix the brakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[troubleshooting]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[CAR BRAKE REPAIR Brake Problems WEAR &#38; TEAR &#8211; Due to its constant use brake pads needs to be checked every 6 months or when you suspect a problem cause by wear and tear.   When you hear some squeaking, grinding, or when you have to push it too low before the vehicle stops then chances [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=brakeproblemsandtroubleshooting.wordpress.com&amp;blog=8687736&amp;post=1&amp;subd=brakeproblemsandtroubleshooting&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>CAR BRAKE REPAIR</p>
<p>Brake Problems</p>
<p>WEAR &amp; TEAR &#8211; Due to its constant use brake pads needs to be checked every 6 months or when you suspect a problem cause by wear and tear.   When you hear some squeaking, grinding, or when you have to push it too low before the vehicle stops then chances are your brake needs to be checked in for repairs.</p>
<p>WARPED ROTORS – Brake pads in most vehicles have a thin metal tab which vibrates against the rotor.  Wear and tear of brake pads can ruin the rotors if it goes unchecked.  Another cause of rotor damage is overheating and/or incorrect tightening of the wheel which results to warped rotors.  Lug nuts that are not tightened evenly can also cause the rotor to warp.   Most new cars especially those with disc brake systems have rotors which are very thin and warp very easy.  A pulsing feeling when you apply the brakes usually signals a warped rotor.</p>
<p>INSUFFICIENT STOPPING POWER &#8211; If the brake pedal feels firm but when you step on it the brakes lack sufficient power or brake fades right away.  The problem could be the brake booster and/or brake booster check valve operation.  Worn out brake linings and brake surface areas can also cause this problem as well as hydraulic parts and linkages that need to be cleaned or replaced.  If you have to press the brakes all the way down before it starts to slow check your brake fluid, make sure too that it is not contaminated. Another problem could be the brake pads.</p>
<p>BURNING ODOR -  This can be the result of a damaged brake caliper or other brake hydraulic component such as rusted caliper piston, clogged brake hydraulic hose and other linkages and cables.</p>
<p>DRAGGING BRAKES &#8211; Caused by jammed or corroded caliper piston, a weak/ broken retracting springs or a corroded caliper mounting pins or bushings.</p>
<p>Scott Stephens is a spokesperson for Auto Repair Report. Auto Repair Report teaches drivers how to save thousands of dollars on <a href="http://www.AutoRepairReport.com" target="_blank">Auto Repair</a> costs&#8230; Without needing to become a mechanic!  Check it out today!</p>
<p>BRAKE PROBLEMS Part 2</p>
<p>BRAKE PEDAL THAT FEELS WEAK WHEN PRESSED<br />
When you push the brake pedal and it feels unusually weak against your foot then check to make sure there’s enough brake fluid.  LOW BRAKE FLUID usually indicates a leak in the brake system so check the brakes hoses and lines.  If this is not cause by a leak inspect the wheel cylinders, calipers and master cylinder. A spongy or soft brake pedal could also mean there is air in the brake system either as a result of improper bleeding, fluid loss or a very low fluid level.  If the pedal sinks to the floor this could be a dangerous condition caused by either a malfunctioning master cylinder or a leak in the hydraulic system.  Another possible cause is a rubber brake hose that balloons out when the brakes are applied.</p>
<p>BRAKE PEDAL THAT DOES NOT PUMP UP<br />
Again, check the brake fluid level and look for leaks in the hydraulic system.  If the brake fluid level is ok and still the pedal doesn’t pump up the master cylinder could be the problem and needs to be replaced.</p>
<p>GRINDING NOISE WHEN BRAKING<br />
The brake linings and brake surface areas may have worn out and needs to be replaced. Check also the wheel bearing, which could have been damaged due to excessive heat.</p>
<p>REAR BRAKES SURFACE VARIATION &#8211; When you feel a brake vibration through the brake pedal while braking alone and not in the steering wheel.</p>
<p>FRONT BRAKES SURFACE VARIATION &#8211; If both the brake pedal and steering wheel vibrate during braking.  This can also apply if both front and rear brakes have surface variations.</p>
<p>EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL – This could happen when you have damaged brake linings, air in the brake lines and/or misadjusted drum brakes.  This can be dangerous as the system may run out of pedal before the vehicle can be safely stopped.</p>
<p>Scott Stephens is a spokesperson for Auto Repair Report. Auto Repair Report teaches drivers how to save thousands of dollars on <a href="http://www.AutoRepairReport.com" target="_blank">Auto Repair </a>costs&#8230; Without needing to become a mechanic!  Check it out today!</p>
<p>Troubleshooting Brake Problems</p>
<p>*Squealing caused by brake dust can be fixed by spraying some brake cleaner that you can buy in the store.  Spray it on the brake system to remove the dust.<br />
* To restore the flatness of the rotor and eliminate the pulsing sensation in the pedal, place the rotor in a lathe and remove material from the braking surface using a cutting tool. Check wheel lug nut torque. Torque the lug nuts to proper specifications using a torque wrench or torque sticks.  Never use impact wrenches. All bolts including lug nuts should have anti-seize compound on the threads to prevent them from rusting fast.<br />
* Hard brake pedal is usually caused by a malfunctioning Brake Power Boost Unit.  Since this is vacuum controlled, use a special vacuum measurement device that connects to the brake booster to check it.  Pump the brake pedal several times making sure that the car&#8217;s engine is shut to bleed off any vacuum that may still be in the unit. Once you apply pressure to the brake pedal, start the engine and the brake pedal should move downward about one inch.   If nothing happens and the vacuum connections to the booster unit are okay, a new booster is needed. Another cause would be a faulty check valve that allows the vacuum to bleed out.  To check, start the engine in order to build a vacuum.  Switch it off and wait for 4 or 5 minutes then try the brakes again.  Low power assist may be due to low engine vacuum, a leak in the vacuum hose or a defective booster.  On other vehicles that is equipped with &#8220;hydroboost power brakes&#8221;, a hard pedal can be caused by a loose power steering pump belt, a low fluid level, leaks in the power hoses, or leaks or faulty valves in the hydroboost unit itself.<br />
* Use an anti-squeak compound (spray or paste) on the back of the brake pads.  This will keep the pads from vibrating.<br />
* For a brake pedal that feels spongy, check the brake fluid level and condition. Inspect if the fluid is contaminated or has not been flushed every two years.  Clean the master cylinder reservoir and flush the brakes using fresh brake fluid.<br />
Brake problems vary greatly with the make and model of a car, the age of the car and several other factors. And since a vehicle&#8217;s brake system is so crucial, it&#8217;s better to be cautious and have your vehicle repaired by an expert.</p>
<p>Scott Stephens is a spokesperson for Auto Repair Report. Auto Repair Report teaches drivers how to save thousands of dollars on <a href="http://www.AutoRepairReport.com" target="_blank">Auto Repair</a> costs&#8230; Without needing to become a mechanic!  Check it out today!</p>
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